Manrai-ken

In a residential neighbourhood of Nakakasai, 万来軒 is a nostalgic, old-school Chinese-style diner open for two hours at lunchtime and two hours in the evening, Thursday through Sunday. Many diners arrive hungry for the stamina stir-fry set meal, a signature dish at the restaurant. A generous portion of meat and vegetables is cooked in a sweet-and-savoury sauce, with mayonnaise and a thick slice of lemon on the side. It is a substantial plate that makes the white rice especially easy to polish off.

For a meal that gives equal attention to noodles and rice, the combination of ramen and half a portion of fried rice is a satisfying choice. The ramen has a light soy-sauce broth with wakame floating on top and medium-thick noodles—a nostalgic, Tokyo-style bowl. Alongside it, the fried rice is moist rather than dry, with the savoury flavour of chopped char siu ends. Even the half-size serving is generous enough to make a filling meal.

For an even heartier meal, there is a generously sized grilled-meat rice bowl topped with a fried egg over pork, green pepper and onion. Rice bowls are a strong point here, with choices including katsudon and sets with half a portion of Chinese-style rice bowl. Small plates include hand-wrapped gyoza, fried horse mackerel and stir-fries, and diners have also been seen taking their time over a beer.

The compact dining room has counter and table seating, while the couple who run the restaurant are described as friendly, giving the space a warm atmosphere. Payment is cash only, and the restaurant is closed Monday through Wednesday, so it is worth checking the opening days before setting out.